|Posted on Monday, January 01, 2001 - 3:22 am: |
Have you a process or procedure for for stitching mulitple row panoramas from digicam or film sources?
|Posted on Friday, January 05, 2001 - 3:21 pm: |
I too am wondering about this feature. The closest I can think of for now is to use my camera's vertical stitching feature to make a few vertically connected photos and then use panorama factory to stitch these horizontally.
|Posted on Monday, January 08, 2001 - 10:27 pm: |
Unfortunately, The Panorama Factory does not directly support "mosaic" stitching (there are other applications out there that do, e.g. QuickStitch). However, one fellow wrote to me saying that he had successfully done this with The Panorama Factory. I haven't tried it myself and I haven't seen his results, so I can't really say whether it works well or not. But I can tell you what he did.
To do this "2-D" stitching you have to use the Classic interface. You would do something like this:
1. Stitch each row of images into its own panorama and save the resulting image files as BMP, TIF or JPG using the Save current image as command (File menu).
2. You must start a new project for combining the rows of images. That is, you cannot use the same project file that you used for creating the rows.
3. Import the row images into the new project and use the rotate 90 command to flip them sideways.
4. Run the Trimming properties dialog (Tools menu). Select the Fixed-size rectangle radio button. Enter the width and height of the smallest row image.
5. Follow these steps for each image to trim it to the specified size:
a. Double-click each imported image in turn.
b. You'll see a large red rectangle on the image. This is the trimming rectangle. Its size is what you entered on the Trimming properties dialog.
c. Move the trimming rectangle to include the part of the image you want to keep.
d. Use the Approve command (Image menu, right-click menu or green checkmark on the toolbar) to trim the image.
e. Move to the next imported image with ALT+Arrow Key or by returning to the imported image thumbnails with the Show imported images command (View menu) or the toolbar button showing little thumbnails.
6. Choose the Swing lens camera setting on the Camera properties dialog (Tools menu). This suppresses warping of the images.
7. The trimmed thumbnails appear in the upper (computed) thumbnails pane. Get them in the right order, select them and stitch.
Good luck! If you get a good result, would you let me see it?
|Posted on Wednesday, November 13, 2002 - 12:36 pm: |
I guess I'm the first to look for an upgrade to QuickStitch and end up here. I've composites from QS that are 8 images (2x4 as sunset) and 12 images (3x4 as house), so I'm certainly voting for vertical or cell stitching.
Dealing with images is relatively new to me, but I've been in software development for lots of years, so just bear with me a few moments.
I tried the technique about with my sunset and wasn't very happy with the result, probably me and need to learn more about the supporting tools. One thing for sure, it helps to plan your stitching project. I decided to take another approach, I went back to QS and created column images. Then used PF to stitch the columns, much better for both the sunset and house.
1. The xy pixel size of the QS version was only 60% of the PF version, while the QS dpi was 150 and PF was 96. And the source images had 200 dpi. I need a brief lesson here??
2. With the extra step, I loose composite real estate, since PF requires the source to be the same size, which I can understand, with irregular sources PF would have fun for a day or two. What if, after the images are imported, you could connect-the-dots, or rectangles, like the resulting overlap display. The rectangles wouldn't crop they just provide a stitch starting area. Define the base overlap for image 1 and 2, then for image 2 and 3, 3 and 4, etc. Images 2 and 3 would have 2 rectangles going to the previous and next images. The areas outside the rectangles should overlap close to where they belong, then the cropping can be done as the last step.
If there are questions, don't hesitate and I'm working on making them available for viewing.
I like PF, need to learn more, but I'm going to keep QS in the tool box.
Post Number: 6
|Posted on Monday, October 27, 2003 - 3:47 pm: |
I tried the method described to recover an ancient schematic for a machine tool we had that needed service.
The original was unreadable, and I needed it.
I scanned the print in several pieces (pretty big print) and used PF to stitch them together using
the swing lense option. Some manual fine tuning was required as the scans had some distortion at the edges due to the fact that I didn't want to apply pressure to force the original down to the glass at the edges.
The final image was saved as a BMP and then I went to work with Photoshop.
When I got an image I could make out, I imported that into AutoCAD and drew a new schematic over the image.
It was much quicker than just redrawing the thing with the original on my knee, and my eyes don't hurt like they would have.
PF is great for putting together documents that have been scanned in several pieces.
Post Number: 1
|Posted on Sunday, November 02, 2003 - 2:13 am: |
Hopefully multi-row can be implemented at some point fully in Panorama Factory since it appears that QuickStich is no longer available as a product for Mosaics. Are there any other recommeneded solutions for Mosaic capability?
|Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 7:47 pm: |
I recently had a problem whereby if the camera is not horizontal, then the stiching screws up because the reprojection assumes where the horizon is, I can even tell it what the angle is from my camera setup, I can't find anywhere in PF to enter it. Being able to change the angle from the horizon would get you 50% of the way towards multi row panos.
Post Number: 7
|Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 9:29 pm: |
This is for Chris and any others who find that the camera isn't horizontal in one or more of your shots. You can rotate them by any amount in Photoshop, and then crop to get all the shots to the same pixel size. Both x and y. One way to get all the shots at the same z axis rotation is to start with on that is reasonably level, and then import the next on another layer and set the opacity somewhere around 50% so you can move and rotate that layer and see what is behind. When you feel the images will stitch ok, then set the layer opacity to 100% and copy the layer to a new file.
Post Number: 206
|Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 11:30 pm: |
The ability to stitch images that are rotated and/or tilted is on the list of features for the next major release (V4.0). I cannot give you a release date at this time, but it is under development!
|Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2005 - 12:36 am: |
John, thanks for the good news, Jim, I did some calcs that seem to work out. See http://spiritdreams.net/cdturner/panos/panos.html
Post Number: 1
|Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2007 - 8:55 pm: |
OK. For Version 4.4, the home page now states:
Multi-row stitching full spheres with a tripod partial pans with a tripod partial pans without a tripod
So, where are the instructions for multi-row stitching? I can't find them anywhere. This is the main reason I upgraded. I find it rather annoying that something blasted on the home page is not quickly found in Help or other resources. I tried just using the Wizard, but it just stitched the photos as one row.
Post Number: 293
|Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2007 - 9:04 pm: |
There is a link read the step-by-step stitching instructions on the home page to the left of the rotating VR sample.
I guess maybe I should move it under "partial pans without a tripod" instead. I just added this sample image to the home page a couple days ago and I haven't worked out the kinks yet.
Sorry for the confusion.
Post Number: 2
|Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2007 - 9:37 pm: |
Thanks for the prompt response. I'm working on the tips you provided.